Living well
The unsustainable side of leather: But what about second-hand?
Will Callaghan
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Leather has long been considered a luxurious and durable material, but at what cost? Its production is inherently unsustainable, requiring the death of animals, high water consumption, and toxic chemicals. Some argue that second-hand leather extends its lifecycle, making it a more sustainable choice. Meanwhile, plant-based alternatives are emerging—but are they truly better?
The problem with traditional leather
Animal leather is one of the most resource-intensive materials in fashion. It not only involves the slaughter of animals but also contributes to deforestation, particularly in regions like the Amazon, where land is cleared for cattle farming. Tanning—especially chrome tanning—releases harmful chemicals into waterways, endangering workers and communities. Even with vegetable tanning, the ethical issue of taking a life remains.
Is second-hand leather a solution?
Buying second-hand leather is often seen as a more sustainable option. Since leather is highly durable, a well-maintained jacket or bag can last decades, reducing the need for new production. However, this argument doesn’t address the core ethical problem: leather always comes from an animal who didn’t want to die. Increased demand for second-hand leather could also drive up resale prices, indirectly sustaining the industry.
The rise of plant-based alternatives
The Black Box Co.
Today, sustainable leathers are emerging. Materials like Piñatex (pineapple leaves), mushroom leather, apple leather, and cactus leather offer cruelty-free alternatives with a lower environmental impact. They require fewer resources, no animal exploitation, and often biodegrade faster than plastic-based faux leathers.
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Durability: Can they compete?
A key concern about plant-based leathers is longevity. While animal leather can last a lifetime, some bio-based alternatives still need plastic coatings for durability. However, innovation is improving these materials, making them longer-lasting and biodegradable.
Leather is inherently unsustainable. Second-hand use extends its life but doesn’t erase the ethical issue. As plant-based alternatives improve, they offer a truly sustainable future.